Skin and its types

ANALYSIS OF SKIN

A thorough analysis is key to any effective facial or skin treatment.  This helps you determine the correct creams and lotions to use during the plain facial and also helps you suggest the appropriate products for your client to use at home. Record your observations and place the client card in a file so that you can keep track of the effectiveness of services given.

Dip small cotton pads, the size of quarter, into cool water or witch hazel.  Squeeze out excess moisture and place a pad over each eye.  Then, turn on the magnifying analysis light and swing it over your client’s face.  Place one hand on the face and with the other, bring the lamp down close so you can observe the quality of the skin.

Elasticity is observed by gently lifting the skin on the cheeks with the thumb and forefinger.  Release the grasped skin to observe how quickly it springs back into place.  Loose or aging skin will leave a ridge for a few seconds, while elastic skin will immediately return to its original position.

Pliability is determined by how resistant the skin is to movement.  On the cheek, use gentle pressure to move the skin up and out.  If the skin is very tight or dry, you will need to use a heavier massage cream. Hydration is the amount of moisture present in the skin.  Dehydrated skin typically has lines and very small, tightly closed pores.  In addition, milia are often seen on dehydrated skin.  Sometimes these pores are so tight that they are not even visible under the magnifying lamp.  Normal skin should have pores that are small in size, yet visible under the lamp. Check for flaking skin, especially in the forehead, the center cheek, and on the chin.  Excess oil creates a sheen that is easily visible.  Under the lamp, the skin resembles an orange peel and may be yellow in color.  The pores of this skin type are usually enlarged, especially across the forehead and down the nose and may be clogged. Comedones and pimples may also be present. Cuperrose and damaged capillaries that are visible under the lamp as tiny red lines.  Cuperose indicate fragile, aging skin or an area where damage may have been done due to injury, pinching, smoking, drinking, sun exposure, etc.  You should not these areas and avoid massage there to avoid further damage.

Record all data from your analysis on a client record card.  This will help you keep track of progress as well as note the effectiveness of products recommended for home use.

PRESSURE POINTS:

Nerves control the muscles of the body.  A muscle may be stimulated and its nerve relaxed by the correct manipulation of the pressure point.  This point is where the nerve fibers enter the muscles that control the skeleton.  The pressure points to the face are shown in figure.  The three nerves you as a cosmetologist affect most in massage are the 5^th, 7^th and 11^th cranial nerves.  These and other points of anatomy are explained to you in nerve points chapter.  The nerves are listed in Table 1 & 2.

Whenever you are moving from one area of the face to another, and your massage movements over a pressure point.  Pause for a few seconds and then gently “feather off” the area by decreasing pressure as you lift one hand at a time from the face.  Place the first hand on the next area to be massaged before lifting the second hand from the skin.

TYPES OF SKIN

• Oily skin 
• Dry skin 
• Dehydrated (More Dry) 
• Normal skin 
• Combination skin    
• Allergic skin 
• Sensitive skin 
• Mature or Dehydrated skin

Oily Skin:

1. Pimples 
2. Black heads 
3. Skin scars & thick 
4. Uneven texture 
5. Enlarged pores 
6. High moisture content 
7. Skin is shining & oily

Dry Skin:

1. Ages very soon
2. Pulls 
3. Very tight pores 
4. Poor moisture content 
5. Wrinkles around moth, eyes, neck 
6. Uneven skin colour 
7. White heads near eyes & cheek area

Dehydrate Skin:

      More dry areas with no moisture on face.

Normal Skin:

1. Pores are small 
2. Good moisture content 

DIFFERENT TYPES OF PROBLEM SKIN & REMEDY:

Facial for dry skin:

Facials for dehydrated (dry) skin incorporate steaming into the plain facial procedure.  If you have a steamer in your school, warm it while you are preparing your client, cleansing the face, and performing the analysis.  Then turn the steamer so that it makes a fine mist over the face. Move the steamer 12 – 20 inches away so your client does not feel moisture droplets.  Client should feel a fine, warm mist that is soothing and moisturizing at the same time.

Apply a massage cream as outlined in the previous section.  For dry skin, you may choose one that also contains natural oils that can be absorbed by the skin.  Continue through the massage movements as outlined, turn the steamer away, and remove excess massage cream.

It you do not have a steamer available, saturate a towel with hot water.  Cover the eyes with protective pads.  Thoroughly wring excess water from the towel and beginning at the chin, wrap the face in the steaming towel.  Press gently at the forehead and on the cheeks, let the towel remain on the face for a few moments while you prepare a second towel.  Exchange it for the first and repeat several times.

           

Select a treatment mask that will add humectants. These natural ingredients attract and draw moisture into the deeper levels of the skin, especially when the pores are often open due to steaming.

Your instructor will assist you in selecting the correct product.  Protect the eyes with cotton pads and apply the mask according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Cover the face with cotton strips to fit the face as your instructor recommends.  Remove after the recommended time has gone by, cleanse any traces with a non alcohol freshener, and finish the facial by applying a moisturizer.

Treatment for oily skin:

Oily skin can effectively by regular facials. In combination with correct nutrition, oily skin can be prevented from developing into more complex skin problems, such as acne or comedones.

First, cleanse the skin thoroughly with a water – based product.  Use a hydrating massage cream that is not heavy in waxes movements, deep – cleanse the skin.  If you have access to facial machines in your school, use the vacuum attachment to gently deep – cleanser pores.

If such a machine is not available, turn on the analysis light and then swing it over the face. Sanitize your hands. Gently apply pressure at the sides of comedones or pimples to remove clog.  Do not puncture the skin and do not mark the skin with your fingernails.  Do not use an extractor. These metal implements can puncture the skin or cause bruising.  Rather, wrap your fingertips with cotton or tissues to protect the client’s skin.

Next, apply a pack designed for oily skin that will reduce pore size and pull impurities from the skin. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for product selection and use.  Apply with a sanitized spatula, being careful not to contaminate the pack in the jar.  Protect the eyes with pads, and leave the pack on the skin for the prescribed amount of time.

Treatment for combination skin:

It is quite common to find a combination of skin types when you analyze our client’s skin.  This is especially true as the skin matures.  It is not uncommon to find an oily.  T-zone across the forehead and down the nose.  On the same client, the cheek area – especially directly under the eye – could be lacking in moisture.  In addition, the areas around the eyes and mouth are the most likely to show evidence of dryness and the first signs of aging.

Treatment of combination skin should begin with a plain facial as outlined previously in this chapter.  After the massage is completed, either treat the skin for the primary condition or apply the mask and / or pack in the appropriate areas.  Use a separate spatula for each formula to remove the product to your hand. Discard the spatula. Use special care to avoid any contamination of the product in the jar.  Cover the eyes with soothing pads and time the treatment as recommended by the manufacturer of the products chosen.

Sensation:

As mentioned in the previous section, the skin is well supplied with sensory nerve endings or receptors that convey messages to the brain and spinal cord. These nerve endings react to touch, heat, cold, pain and pressure. The skin is the principal organ of the sense of touch.  Sensations such as itching, ticking, and burning result when combinations of nerve endings are stimulated.  Other nerves, called motor nerves, act on tiny arractor pili muscles that are attached to the hair follicles, the tube like extensions through which hair reaches the surface of the body.  This muscle can make your hair strand on end and can cause gooseflesh when you are chilled or frightened.  The arrector pilo muscle will be discussed in more detail in the section on the hair.  A third type of nerve, the secretary nerve, affects the activities of the sweat and oil glands.

PIGMENTATION DEFECTS AND WRINKLES:

Freckles, Vitiligo and Chloasma are common pigmentation problems.

Freckles:  Appear most often on fair skin, especially on the skin of red heads. These blotches of color result from a concentration of pigment in a small area.

Vitiligo:  is white blotches, usually on the arms and neck, which are caused by the absence of pigment.  These stand out most clearly after exposure to sunlight, and there is little than can be done, except to avoid the sun and wear clothing that covers the affected area.  Dermatologists can treat this disorder.

Chloasma: is dark spots on the face, and it usually makes its first appearance on the forehead around the hairline.  The cause of chloasma is unknown, but the condition can be treated by an esthetician or a dermatologist.

Albinism: is a hereditary condition that occurs in people with little or no pigment.  Albinos have milky complexions, white hair and pink or blue eyes with deep red pupils.

Wrinkles:  Wrinkles occur with age as the skin loses its elasticity.  If these lines have a negative psychological effect, advise your client to see a dermatologist or plastic surgeon.  While a doctor can recommend some medication to help preserve a youthful appearance, it should be pointed out that facial packs, masks and cosmetic preparations do not remove wrinkles.

For ACNE and WARTS type of skin problems Refer:

http://acnedefinition.blogspot.com

http://wartsremedy.blogspot.com

For various facials and beauty tips follow the url:


http://facial-types.blogspot.com/

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http://goldfacial.blogspot.com/

http://flowerfacial.blogspot.com/


http://makeupprocedure.blogspot.com/